Rich History in the Dordogne River Valley
Posted on April 21, 2008
Filed Under Budget Travel, Europe |
Located in the southwest part of France, the Dordogne River valley is one of the most beautiful and serene areas in the country. Locally it’s known as the Perigord, a name that dates back to the time of the Gauls.
Taking the name of the river running through it, the Dordogne region is famed for it’s rich history spanning from early man, through the Hundred Years War, the Renaissance, and finally more modern times. Known for its many prehistoric caves and numerous castles, there is plenty to keep ones interest.
Of course, one of the big draws of the region is food, and it’s been referred to as the gastronomic capital of France. Meals are hearty, and the wine robust. Restaurants abound, prices are affordable, and it’s just hard to find a bad meal in the Perigord.
Besides superb eating, you’ll find extremely reasonable accommodations. There is lodging of every description, ranging from small B&Bs to elegant hotels. Below are a couple great choices, especially for the budget conscious. You can find more details and other lodging in this article, the Secret Hotels of the Dordogne.
Le Bellevue
Overlooking umpteen miles of rolling hills and the tiny town of Montignac, these basic accommodations offer a view that your average luxury hotel would kill for. Not only that, but the setting is appealingly serene as there’s nothing around but fields and farmland. You might even forget that the Lascaux Cave, home of France’s most famous prehistoric paintings, is just a five-minute walk away. Though none of the five rooms gets the view face-on, you can take in the scenery over café au lait in the breakfast room or simply plop down on the hillside at any time of day. One of the rooms has a small private terrace, so book well ahead; unlike most of these hotels, Le Bellevue is open year-round.La Maison des Peyrat
Sarlat is probably the prettiest town in the Dordogne, but its popularity can make for a less-than-tranquil experience. This is all the more reason to stay at La Maison des Peyrat, about half a mile uphill in a residential neighborhood. The long, one-story stone building dates back to the Middle Ages and at various times was a hospital for plague victims, a residence for nuns and a farm. Part of its appeal was ample water as you may note by the well in what is now the hotel’s reception area. Current owners Martine and Jean-Luc Ginestet preserved the historic character of the building, while also injecting a dash of modern design. The result is 10 simple, airy rooms in light colors with rattan furniture; common areas feature exposed beams and original artwork, including some of Martine’s sculptures. Outside, a chestnut tree shades the terrace where breakfast and dinner are served in good weather.
Although the Dordogne is beautiful throughout the year, it’s the most beautiful in spring, when the many fruit orchards are in bloom, and the fall, when the light makes the landscape seem to come alive with color. Summer of course is popular and though Dordogne is no more crowded than other places, it can be frustrating trying to navigate the riverside villages. In winter, many shops and hotels close for the season.
Getting there: The Dordogne River valley is within the area known as Perigord, and the French use the terms interchangeably. The flights from Paris-Orly to Bordeaux are about an hour long; you can rent a car in Bordeaux and drive to Perigueux in about 90 minutes. You might also take the high-speed TGV train from Paris to Bordeaux (three hours), or a regular train to Brive-la-Gaillarde (four hours) or Souillac (41/2 hours), and then rent a car. Driving from Paris to Souillac via the autoroute (a toll highway) takes approximately five hours.
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